Just returned from an amazing pilgrimage tour of Coastal Karnataka. Here goes.
Dates are in the Greogrian calendar, Anno-Domini.
July 17 2004: Saturday
Hired a cab, all the way from Bangalore to Sringeri. It was quite an amazing drive. Lush forests of the western ghats & fields & wild-flowers, it was simply magnificient. Saw the holy river Tungabhadra, on whose banks Adi Shankara saw a frog in labour protected from the sun by a cobra (its hood); 2500 years back (according to Puranic history). The matt was awesome as well. When the Shankaracharya commenced his Puja of the Bhoga Linga (one of the 5 main Lingas Adi Shankara procured from Kailasha), I thought a cassette by a professional was being played. It turned out to be a group of three girls, whose singing was aided by the place's acoustics. They were simply magnificent. (They can certainly be professionals. C'mon Spic-Macay). The songs were in certain soulful favourite ragams of mine, which almost brought tears to my eyes; such was their rendition. This was followed by awesome reverberating Vedic chants, where I felt handicapped without my book. Stayed in the Matt house.
Saw Halebid from afar on the way. Didn't have the enthu to go in & wanted to reach Sringeri. However, did visit the Vishnu temple at Belur. It was simply an amazing temple with some great sculptures. However, the holy place of worship seems a commercialized tourist place, unfortunately.
July 18 2004: Sunday
Had a very enjoyable morning among the greenery, saw 'paakku' trees covered with pepper climbers, some beautiful flowers, and some very, very cute monkeys with kids. It was a small species of a monkey with a beard, it would be only till my thighs (I'm 5'6''), and there were quite a few baby monkeys tightly hugging its mother. So cute. Put some water of the Tungabhadra on my head, felt my sins lightened. :) All the way then to Hornadu Annapoorneshwari temple. This again was established by Adi Shankara himself. One can only imagine how he travelled to all these places so long ago (1500-2500 yrs back). I was convinced he would have travelled by Yogic powers. Drove through a dense forest, which was simply amazing, with some amazing sights. The rivers & green mountains & jungle sounds... It was mind-blowing. Nothing like a tropical rain-forest to cheer you up. And calm you.
We were driving through mists & fogs & clouds in-between. An amazing experience. And a little scary in the foggy nights.
All the way back to Udipi. The driver, a nice guy, informs us that it would be better if we'd travelled to Hornadu first, then to Sringeri. There were lots of cows in Udipi, being treated well, having their residence on the roads & waking up to human calls for food. :) It was funny & cute at the same time.
July 18 2004: Monday-Day three
Udipi-Kollur Mookambi-Kateel Jala Durga-Dharmasthala. Kollur seems established by Adi Shankara (again) during his search for Sringeri (for Goddess Saraswati's residence). The Sowparniga river was beautiful here. More river water on my head. In Udipi, Krishna had turned himself to the backside, for the sake of a pure-minded devotee, and had broken the wall with his Math. All devotees seem him from the back to this day. (The Brihadeeshwara Nandi had moved for similar reasons). There are beautiful ancient stories concerning Madhvacharya & Swami Vadeeshwara. Kateel had the Nandhini river, more of which disappeared on my head. :)
Night at Dharmasthala on the banks of the beautiful Netravati river. Dharmasthala is truly a Dhramasthala for the amount of people they feed unquestioningly. Vedic dharma certainly flourishes there.
Saw Aanai-Konda-Ganesha sometime in-between.
July 19 2004: Tuesday-Day four
Dharmasthala again in the morning, then to Subramanya. A wonderful drive again. Again situated on the banks of the river, Kumaradhara. This region is definitely naturally endowed. And so beautiful. Back to Bangalore from Subramanya.
I hope to spend like 3 nights or a week in a tropical Indian forest sometime. That should be wonderful. And tremendously refreshing.
Hope this itinerary helps others with similar ideas plan theirs.
Trip itinerary in a nutshell:
Bangalore-Halebid-Sringeri-Hornadu-Udipi-Kollur-Kattil-Dharmasthala-Subramanya-Bangalore
Better itinerary:
Bangalore-Halebid-Hornadu-Sringeri-Udipi-Kollur-Kattil-Dharmasthala-Subramanya-Bangalore
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